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They are generally smaller in volume and are less interested in consistency and more in quality.
Why is consistency not a good thing?
If a maker has to turn out a homogenous, always-the-same product year after year (like a supermarket supplier would) then annual weather differences have to be ironed out. To do this may require different physical processes or the use of "adjusting" techniques sometimes involving chemicals.
The irony for these wines is that, should they have a perfect vintage, they then have to dumb the wines down so as not to give themselves a headache in the lesser years.
We look for people who grow the best grapes they can with the minimum of intervention and then make the best wine they can with the given fruit.